Cav Empt’s Grime Influence

Japanese label Cav Empt has become a staple of both Western & Eastern streetwear over the past 12 years. Widely recognized for their complex graphics and signature red badge, Cav Empt’s technical design has always been influenced by its founders love for the dystopian sci-fi novels of Philip K. Dick. However, if you look a little closer at much of the brand’s aesthetic it is clear to see another notable influence: Grime.

Cav Empt was founded in Tokyo, Japan by creatives Toby Feltwell, Sk8thing, and Hishi Yutaka in the wake of the 2011 Tōhoku earthquake and tsunami. Whilst Sk8thing had previously designed for the likes of Bape, Undercover, and Neighbourghood, amongst others, and Hishi had worked for Billionaire Boys Club, Feltwell’s path to streetwear with Cav Empt was far more unorthodox.

Born in 1974 in Northamptonshire, England, Toby Feltwell initially began visiting Japan in the 90s. As an avid skater, Feltwell had always admired the style and culture of Japan which he often saw in magazines growing up. It was this passion for skating which actually led to his first career as a music A&R for British record label Mo’ Wax, due to their relationship with Slam City Skates. During his time working in the music industry, Feltwell was responsible for signing a then 17-year old Dizzee Rascal as well as other members of Roll Deep to XL Recordings. 

Many years later, when developing Cav Empt, Toby tapped into his past experiences working in and around Grime during its rise to prominence. The rugged sportswear-inspired style of early 2000s London fitted perfectly with the aesthetic that the trio were trying to achieve for the brand. To further show his admiration for British street culture, Feltwell even brought in grime legend D Double E to model for many of the brands early lookbooks. 

Fast forward to the present day, the current crop of UK rappers and artists have also embraced the Japanese label with the likes of Skepta and Slowthai consistently donning its garments. Cav Empt can now be seen across the streets of Britain with its prominence in London, Manchester, and Bristol presenting a rise in both the brands popularity and streetwear in general.